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Prepare Resin Models for Painting

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    1. 1.Washing
      Clean the parts thoroughly with a mild soap in lukewarm water. The reason for doing this is to make sure all traces of mould release fluids are removed. It also gives a very slight abrasion to the surface of the model that will help with paint adhesion. Use a sponge or soft brush. Be careful not to damage or break off any cast-on detail parts. I usually leave the components to soak for a little while before scrubbing, and again for a little while after. Then remove the models, rinse thoroughly and allow them to dry.
      This isn't always necessary but I find it's generally better to be safe than sorry, especially as it will be that much more difficult to do once you have assembled the kit and begun painting it!
    2. 2. Removing the parts from the Sprues
      Just like with metal and plastic models, there will be excess material that needs to be removed from the parts of the kit before you can assemble it. The main difference is that, with resin models, the bits needing removal can be larger and must be removed with more care. These are the result of the casting process and unavoidable but all can be easily dealt with.
      The mould plug is the area where the resin is poured into the mould. This is the biggest piece of excess resin. A mould plug can appear in many different shapes, depending on the shape of the model. The most common are V shapes that are on the side of a detailed or odd shaped component or a large rectangle going onto a squared component. These will need removing and may take some effort with a larger part.Check the instructions again to be sure that the items you see are actually mould plugs and not part of the kit. To remove the larger parts from the mould plug, especially when it is too large to use clippers easily, cut them off with a saw. Unlike with clippers, this can be done as close to the model as you like. It's usually best to do it slightly away from the join though just to make sure that any deviation in your cutting line doesn't affect the model. Again after the mould plug has been removed, use a file to ensure a smooth finish to the surface.
      With smaller components, a pair of clippers and a file should suffice. Don't twist the parts off the sprues - this is the best way to damage them.
      Be careful not to apply too much pressure whilst using clippers - resin is brittle.3. Removing Flash
      First check that what you are removing is not part of the actual model. To remove these lines, use a modelling knife, file or sandpaper and carefully scrape or file away the line. This shouldn't take too long and makes a big difference to the finished model. Repeat this process for each part, paying special attention to small detail pieces.AssemblySo, now we reach the point where we actually begin assembly.Glues
      You will need cyano-acrylate (CA) glue to assemble your model. CA glue, also known as superglue, bonds just about anything very strongly (including skin), but the bonds formed are weak unless the mating surfaces are clean, absolutely dry and fit well. Superglue is best applied with a small toothpick. The better the fit between the parts to be joined, the stronger the bond. Be extremely careful when working with superglue glue. It contains some minute quantity of cyanide, which is a toxic compound. Use it in a well-ventilated area and don't breathe the fumes. Never, ever heat it to make it cure faster.Pre-assembly
      Once the components have been washed and all excess resin has been removed, the model should be ready for assembly. If the model has any interior detail, now might be the best time to paint it, as it could be difficult once the model is assembled.Dry-fitting
      Before gluing the components together, it is a good idea to dry fit them. This just means placing the parts together to make sure they fit okay. This is useful, as it will point out any potential problems such as uneven joins and slight gaps in the joins. Unfortunately gaps are unavoidable with some joins. If there is an uneven join just quickly take a file to it and make it flat before gluing. Or if you are planning on adding extra detail with Green Stuff fill thes gaps with it too.Warped Parts
      Warpage can easily occur with thin components as thin resin components are susceptible to temperature just after casting. To get a warped piece into the right shape (or even to just reshape a piece like a piece of track) just immerse it in hot water and gently bend it. With a larger piece it is best to do this in stages. Bend it a little, allow it to settle and repeat until it is in the correct shape. Larger pieces may also require longer immersion to soften. If you don't want to use hot water then a hair dryer should give the same results, just don't let the piece get too hot (or blow away!). Do not heat resin with any kind of flame.

      Assembling Resin Parts
      Glue the components together straight- don't worry if there is an occasional gap, those can be taken care of in the next stage. It may be an idea to leave off some of the more fragile and smaller parts until after you have painted the main assembly. If this is the case, make sure the joint won't be too apparent afterward, since you won't be able to apply putty on the painted surfaces.

      Occasionally there may be gaps where parts meet, or where a small bubble (void) is present in the resin. It's best to glue all your components that will need filling at the same time as it will save you time and Green Stuff.
      Green Stuff is a malleable substance that hardens when it dries. Green Stuff comes in small, packages from Games Workshop, and several brands are available at your local hobby store.

      Finishing Assembly
      Once the entire model is assembled, apart from the odd little bits that have been left off to simplify the painting process, we need to wash and rinse the whole model again, in order to remove any oils left by our fingers and whatever tools we have used.

      When you've reached this stage you are now ready to prime and paint the model!

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